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Civilian
Guidelines
download in Word
format
The purpose
of these
guidelines is to promote overall authenticity and safety for the
civilians of the 63rd Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, Company C
re-enacting group.
- Mentorship
- Conduct
- Participation
- Impressions
- Clothing
- Camping
- Recommended first-time purchases for
new members
- Appendix A: Recommended Books
- Appendix B: Recommended Websites
- Appendix C: Recommended Vendors
The Civilian
Vice President will assign a mentor to all new members, in order to
assist in their orientation to the hobby.
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➢ The 63rd Pennsylvania has members of all ages and contains many families. Conduct yourself accordingly.
➢ Children are welcome but must be supervised by a parent or legal guardian at all times. There will be no exceptions. There are many hazards in camp, such as fire, gunpowder, and sharp objects, that may harm children.
➢ Public drunkenness and otherwise rude and obnoxious behavior will not be tolerated.
➢ Be considerate of others that may be sleeping late at night.
➢
Smoking cigarettes in historical impression areas is not allowed.
In the nineteenth century, tobacco usage included pipes, cigars, and
chewing tobacco. Most women did not participate in this activity
unless they were immoral or from a rural background.
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➢ The 63rd Pennsylvania is an active organization. In order for our success as a group, we should all be willing to participate in event scenarios. Without participation we cannot grow as an organization.
➢ If, after you have registered for an event you cannot attend, please notify the 63rd Pennsylvania’s event contact person.
➢
Period clothing is required for the duration of the event. Members are
expected to be dressed as soon as practical after arrival.
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Your impression
is an adopted role or persona that you wish to portray for the Civil
War time period. A scenario is a given representation of an
actual or supposed event that did/may have happened. Impressions
should relate to the event scenario. Small event scenarios may be
set up by the group. Members are highly encouraged to do research
and develop individual impressions.
Members should
consult with a knowledgeable member and/or do primary research before
purchasing anything, as 75 per cent of that which is available for
immediate purchase is incorrect. Just because a vendor offers
certain “authentic” items for sale does not mean that they are accurate
for the time period or impression. Primary research is examining
actual photographs, records, clothing, books, letters, or other
artifacts of the time period. Many such sources have been
re-published for ease of access to the public. In order to
accurately construct an impression, one must be able to view beauty in
the eyes of people who lived back then. Remember that what may be
considered “pretty” now may not have been “pretty” then, and vice versa.
➢ Description of women’s items of dress:
During the
Civil War era a lady would have been covered from head to toe with just
her face, neck, and hands exposed. Many layers of clothing were
worn for modesty. The following describes what an average lady
would wear.
➢ The Chemise is a loose garment, similar to a nightgown, worn next to the skin. It usually had short sleeves, although some were sleeveless, and went to around knee level. The chemise protects the corset and dress from perspiration. It was white cotton or linen for ease of bleaching and washing. It could be decorated with eyelet lace, tucks or ribbons.
➢ The Drawers, or pantalettes, are baggy, split crotch pants (for bathroom use). They fasten with a drawstring or a button and end just below the knee. They were white cotton or linen, like the chemise. Eyelet lace or tucks could be added for decoration.
➢ The Corset is worn over the chemise. This is the single most important garment to achieve the desired shape. It is a comfortable garment if it is fitted correctly and not tight-laced (like Scarlet O’Hara). If you choose to omit the corset from your outfit, then no supporting undergarment should be worn. A modern bra should not be worn because it gives the wrong shape to an outfit.
➢ A Corset Cover can be worn over the corset to smooth out any bumps in the corset. It also protects the dress from any sharpness produced by the corset boning. The corset cover was a simple camisole shape, usually made of cotton. This was a newer garment at the time of the Civil War, so it may be omitted.
➢ Petticoats helped fill out the shape of the skirt. Corded petticoats and ruffled petticoats were sometimes used in place of the hoop skirt for fullness. At least one shorter petticoat should be worn for modesty, in the accidental case that the skirt is lifted up. For warmth, quilted petticoats were worn. Use a button, heavy hook and eye, or drawstring to close petticoats.
➢ The Hoop Skirt or Cage Crinoline were invented to replace the use of several petticoats to fill out a skirt. At the time of the Civil War, the popular shape was a pagoda, with the widest part of the skirt lower to the ground, as opposed to the bell-shaped skirt popular before the war, with the widest part of the skirt towards the middle of the skirt. The hoop petticoat is a petticoat with wire boning inserted into casings. The cage crinoline is made of numerous hoops attached to a series of tapes hanging from a waistband.
➢ The Over Petticoat is worn over the hoop skirt to smooth out the bumpy lines created by the hoop boning. It can be white or any other color cotton or silk taffeta for a rustling sound.
➢
Dresses come in many different fabrics, colors, and styles.
Fabric choices include cotton, wool,
silk, and sometimes linen. These are the best fibers to use
because they are authentic, and because they allow the skin to breath,
especially in hot, humid weather. Polyester, rayon, nylon,
acetate, and any other man-made fibers were not invented yet. Since
civilians tend to spend much time near campfires, synthetic fabrics may
be hazardous as they tend to melt and cause severe burns when caught on
fire. However, if a fabric looks and feels like a natural fiber,
and nothing else can be found, use your best judgment. Plaids and
stripes were popular during the 1860s. Currently there are also
many reproduction fabrics available that would be suitable for Civil
War era dresses. It is helpful to know what colors were in
existence during that period, however, as the reproduction fabrics are
sometimes printed in modern colors themes. Many color
combinations do not always appeal to the modern eye, but in fact create
very beautiful dresses. Colors tend to stay in the realm of
natural dye colors, which can de rather diverse. Modern synthetic
dyes were just starting to be invented at this time. The only two
that were available yet were turquoise and fuchsia. Do your
research to determine what is acceptable.
Dress construction does not vary
much during this time period. The bodices usually have waist
darts, side and shoulder seams set slightly towards the back, a
three-piece back, and dropped shoulders. They should fit closely
with no unsightly lumps, bumps, or strained fabric. Most bodices
are lined and lightly boned on some darts and seams. The neck,
waist, and armhole seams are piped. To help keep the dresses
cleaner, white cotton collars and cuffs are basted into dresses.
Sometimes undersleeves are worn to serve this function. Skirts
can be lined part way up to weight the hem. Expensive dresses
would have fully lined skirts. Authentic fasteners include hooks
and eyes, buttons (ceramic, glass, mother of pearl, metal, bone, mother
of pearl), and pins (straight pins or brass safety pins without a
coil). Do not use snaps, zippers, or velcro because they were not
invented yet.
Types of dresses include work
dresses, wrappers, day dresses, and ball gowns. A work dress is
usually a plain, darker colored, one-piece dress with long sleeves that
can roll up for work and a functional, not-too-full skirt. This
should be worn with a half apron or a pinner apron when working.
A wrapper is a “dress of undress.” It is a very plain and
extremely loose (for the time period) dress that is worn only around
the house when preparing for the day or when pregnant. A day
dress is more stylish and worn with a hoop, and it may have decorations
such as ribbon, lace, braid, piping, fringe, or fabric. Sometimes
the fabric itself speaks loud enough to be the only decoration.
Fashion plates are not always an accurate picture of common dress of
common people. Consult carte de visites to see what they really
wore. A ball gown is a very fancy silk dress worn only to evening
dances held in very nice indoor venues. It usually has a lower
neckline, short sleeves, and a full skirt. Modern day prom
dresses and bridesmaid dresses do not convert well to Civil War era
ball gowns.
➢ Footwear includes
shoes, low-cut boots, slippers (similar to the upper on modern pumps),
and stockings of silk, cotton, or wool held up with garters.
Shoes are made of leather or cloth, with a square toe, a low heel (1/4
–1/2 inch), and a plain sole. Colors may be black, brown, tan,
cordovan, gray, cream, white, or combinations of these. Sometimes
an elastic gusset may be included, as elastic was in it’s early stages
of development. Shoes usually lace up or slip on.
➢ Headwear should be worn
almost all of the time to keep the hair clean. Bonnets are a must
for everyone but the young and stylish. Hats were just coming
into fashion at this time. Do research to determine the shape and
decoration of hats. Do not wear shaped stiff wool hats or
bonnets. They should be made of either straw (for summer) or a
fabric-covered buckram and wire frame. Soft bonnets may be
knitted, corded, quilted, or slatted (slat bonnets) of wool, cotton,
silk, or linen. At home a morning cap may be worn before the hair
is done in the morning. “Day” caps are a little fancier than
morning caps, and are worn indoors. Evening wear requires diverse
head adornments.
➢ Hair is generally parted
down the middle and restrained. It can be rolled, twisted, or braided,
held up in a bun, chignon, or loop. Hair pieces were often used
to fill out hairstyles. Bangs were not invented yet. Do not
wear them. They came into style after the war. If you have
bangs, try to pull them back. Hair nets were a popular item to
contain the hair, but they were usually very thin and lightweight, and
matched the hair color. Snoods were a newly fashionable item, and
should be worn occasionally by the young and stylish.
➢ Jewelry was worn quite
frequently and tended to be chunky. French hook earrings are the
preferred type. Crosses and brooches were popular, especially
cameos. Pocket watches are acceptable, but wristwatches and watch
pins were not in use at this time. Watch chains were an item of
jewelry to be shown off. Do your research to find out what the
jewelry really looked like.
➢ Other accessories
worth considering: parasols, capes or coats for cold weather,
mitts and gloves, shawls, reticules (handbags), baskets or bags for
shopping, fans, aprons for cooking or serving, lace collars to dress up
an outfit.
➢ Unnatural hair coloring
➢ Bangs
➢ Nail polish
➢ Makeup (anything worn should look natural)
➢ Modern eyeglasses and sunglasses
➢ Modern jewelry (including post earrings) and wrist watches
➢ Athletic shoes
➢
Prom dresses
➢ Description of men’s items of clothing:
A civilian man of the Civil War period would dress according to his occupation. Some things to consider for men’s clothing are: dress clothes are for dress occasions and are not worn everyday. It is more typical to wear working clothes at re-enactments. Your clothing should suit your impression. Do adequate research before purchasing your outfit.
➢ Drawers were still a newer item of clothing. If wearing drawers is desired, they would be made of cotton, linen, or wool, extend to the ankles with optional ties. They are worn higher than the modern waist and fasten with a few buttons at the fly.
➢ Shirts were considered underwear. They are made of cotton, linen, or wool also. They are cut longer than modern shirts (to the knee) and are tucked between the legs, thus acting as a pair of drawers. They are usually of a pullover style with a few buttons to close at the neck and a button to close each cuff. Sleeves are full cut. Collars are optional.
➢ Vests are typically worn over the shirt. For decency a man would not be seen in public without a vest or a coat over his shirt. There are several collar styles for vests. Wool or linen is the preferred fabric.
➢ Trousers are full cut, riding higher at the waist, with buttons at the fly and no creases in the legs. They would also be made of wool or linen. Suspenders, or ‘braces’, can be used to hold up the trousers.
➢ A frock coat or sack coat finishes off the outfit. A frock is longer and more fitted whereas a sack is looser and shapeless. Wool or linen is correct for these. Trousers, vest, and coat can be matching fabric or contrasting, as desired.
➢ Socks are made of cotton or wool, either hand-knit or by machine. Shoes would be leather, and have squared toes and pegged soles.
➢
Men wore hats at all times when outdoors. It is improper to wear a hat
indoors. Several styles of hats were available. Do your research
to find out which one is right for you.
➢ Description of children’s dress:
➢
Babies and small children: All children wore dresses and bonnets
until they were toilet trained, at about 4 or 5 years. Their
drawers showed below the dress. Boys’ dresses were plainer than
girls’. Use a type of material, probably cotton, that can be
bleached or boiled to remove stains. A girl’s hair is parted down
the middle, while a boy’s hair is parted on the side. The most
difficult part of dressing the little ones is finding correct looking
shoes. Much research has come out in the past few years to help
develop an outfit for small children.
➢
Girls: As a girl aged, her skirt got longer and her drawers got
shorter. A very young girl would wear a dress about knee length
with full-length drawers. She generally wouldn’t wear a hoop
until much later. Her dress would probably be full, one piece,
hanging from her shoulders. When she entered her teen years, she
was ready for a full-length skirt and would dress as a young
adult. Her outfit would consist of drawers, chemise, petticoat,
dress, shoes, and stockings (although bare feet are perfectly
acceptable!). Put lots of growth tucks in kids’ clothing so you
don’t get caught making a whole new wardrobe each year. A young
girl can wear her hair in curls, unrestrained. As she approaches
the long skirt age, she should start pinning up her hair.
➢
Boys: Boys would wear a loose-fitting shirt, knickers (up to his
early teen years), a sack coat, a straw or felt hat, black or dark
brown shoes, and wool or cotton socks. Clothes were generally
ill-fitting and baggy. Knickers would be buttoned to the shirt or
worn with suspenders.
➢ The 63rd Pennsylvania civilians camp outdoors in authentic tents separate from the military. Members of the military may join civilians in camp if they choose. However, military camps are off limits to unescorted civilians.
➢ All items in view and in use should be authentic reproductions. If they are not authentic, they should be hidden. Every effort should be made to procure authentic items to use so that not as much has to be concealed. It takes more effort to cover up non-authentic items than to have authentic items from the start.
➢ If possible, dispose of modern food wrappers before participating in an event, and use authentic food containers.
➢ Camp furniture, cookware, utensils, and dishes should be of the period style. This does not mean that everything must be an antique. Try to save those for future generations to see and enjoy. There are many places that offer excellent reproductions.
➢ The Fire Pit: Do not throw anything into the fire except for natural, burnable items, like paper, wood, and food that will burn completely. The fire is not a garbage pit, and some items are carcinogens when burnt, affecting food quality and safety. Use wood sparingly, as it may be at a premium. Keep a bucket of water near the fire for emergencies.
➢ First aid kits are recommended to be brought for personal use.
➢ Things to avoid:
➢ Devices not to be brought or used: televisions, radios, CD players, head phones, tape recorders, computers, palm pilots, generators, modern lanterns.
➢ Devices that should be hidden: cameras, video cameras, cell phones, flash lights.
➢
Hide coolers, plastic containers, modern garbage bags, toilets, modern
cots and bedding, modern luggage, modern rope and tent pegs, modern
books, photos, pop cans, modern food wrappers, chewing gum
The following items are recommended as first-time purchases for new members:
➢ For women: work dress, apron, appropriate head covering, and generic black shoes, corset, chemise, drawers, petticoat
➢ For men: shirt, trousers with suspenders, vest, and appropriate headwear and shoes
➢ A-frame tent, poles, and pegs
➢ Iron skillet, tin pot, and wooden spoon
➢ Cup, plate, bowl, fork, knife, spoon
➢ Who Wore What?: Women’s Wear, 1861-1865, by Juanita Leisch
➢ Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans & Fashion, 1840-1900, by Joan Severa
➢ Styles and So Forth of the Era of the Hoop with Glossary, compiled by Heidi Marsh
➢ Dear Jane: The Two Hundred Twenty-five Patterns from the 1863 Jane A. Stickle Quilt, by Brenda Manges Papadakis
➢ Hair, Hat, Hood, and Bonnet, Too of the Era of the Hoop, compiled by Heidi Marsh
➢ A Separate Battle: Women and the Civil War, by Ina Chang
➢
Northern Ladies Civil War Recipes, by Patricia B. Mitchell
Appendix B: Recommended Web Sites
➢ Civil War recipes: http://world.std.com/~ata/recipes.htm
➢ United States Sanitary Commission: www.netwalk.com/~jpr
➢ United States Volunteers Civilians: www.usvolunteers.org/Civilian/usvcivilians.html
➢ The Victorian Society in America: www.victoriansociety.org
➢ Godeys Ladies Books: www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey
➢ The Costume Milieux: www.milieux.com/costume/index.html
➢ The Costume Page: members.aol.com/nebula5/tcpinfo.html
➢ Costume museum page: www.costumes.org/pages/museelnx.htm
➢ Farmhouse Fabrics: www.farmfab.com
➢ Thistle Hill Weavers: www.rabbitgoody.com
Appendix C: Recommended Vendors
| ➢ | The Civil War Lady (Joy Melcher) |
| 622 3rd Ave. SW | |
| Pipestone, MN 56164 | |
| (507) 825-3182 | |
| www.civilwarlady.com | |
| ➢ | Originals by Kay (Kay Gnagey) |
| 8116 E. Old US 33 | |
| Churubisco, IN 46723 | |
| (219) 693-3698 | |
| kgnagey@aol.com | |
| www.originals-by-kay.com | |
| ➢ | Mrs. Christen’s Miscellanea (Glenna Jo Christen) |
| 28078 Universal Dr. | |
| Warren, MI 48092 | |
| (810) 668-6286 | |
| www.rust.net/~gwjchris/gcatalog.htm | |
| ➢ | Heritage Reproductions (Kelly Krause) (cage crinolines) |
| 1811 Jeanette Ave. | |
| Evansville, IN 47714 | |
| (812) 473-5233 | |
| mkrause@sigecom.net | |
| ➢ | The Lady in White (Cecilia Petree) (underpinnings) |
| 2612 Robinwood Ave. | |
| Toledo, OH 43610 | |
| (419) 244-8843 | |
| cielpetree@aol.com | |
| ➢ | Lynne Doddington (corded petticoats) |
| 13651 Kretsinger Rd. | |
|
Smithsburg, MD 21783 |
|
| (240) 818-0035 | |
| cordedpetticoats@yahoo.com | |
| www.cwcivilians.com/cordedpetticoats |
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➢ Amazon Drygoods (Janet Burgess)
(patterns and much more)
2218 East 11th St.
Davenport, IA 52803-3760
(319) 322-6800 (phone)
(319) 322-4003 (fax)
(800) 798-7979 (orders)
(319) 322-4138 (questions)
www.amazondrygoods.com
➢ Past Patterns (Saundra Ros Altman)
PO Box 2446
Richmond, IN 47374
www.thepoint.net/~pastpat
➢ James Country Mercantile (Del Warren) (Homespun Patterns)
111 N. Main St.
Liberty, MO 64068
(816) 781-9473 (phone)
(816) 781-1470 (fax)
jamescntry@aol.com
www.jamescountry.com
➢ Alter Years
(patterns, sewing supplies, books)
3749 E. Colorado Blvd.
Pasadena, CA 91107
(818) 585-2994
➢ Dirty Billy’s Hats (Bill Wickham)
(men’s hats)
Mail address:
7574 Middleburg Rd.
Detour, MD 21757
(410) 775-1865
Store address:
430A Baltimore St.
Gettysburg, PA 17315
(717) 334-3200
➢ Clearwater Hat Company
(men’s hats)
1007 Clearwater Rd.
Newnata, AK 72680-8854
(870) 746-4324 (phone)
(870) 746-4294 (fax)
www.clearwaterhats.com
➢ Stevenson House (Suzanne Carter Isaacson)
(women’s headwear)
PO Box 1171
Harpers Ferry, WV 25425
(304) 535-2625
StevensonHouse@webtv.net
➢ Fashionable Follys Millinery (Beverly Lister)
1729 N. Bennington Rd.
N. Bennington, VT 05257
(802) 447-7467
➢ Fugawee Corporation
3127 Corrib Drive
Tallahassee, FL 32308
(800) 749-0387 (phone)
(850) 893-5742 (fax)
www.fugawee.com
➢ Lincoln Log Cabin
400 S. Lincoln Hwy. Rd.
PO Box 100
Lerna, IL 62440
(217) 345-1845 (phone)
(217) 345-6472 (fax)
www.lincolnlogcabin.org
➢ Abraham’s Lady (Donna Abraham)
Mailing address:
1402 St. Matthew Dr.
Verga, NJ 08093
(609) 853-6882
Store address:
47 Steinwehr Ave.
Gettysburg, PA 17325
(717) 338-1798
abraham@citnet.com
➢ James River Emporium (Betty Loba)
5296 Gravelbrook Dr.
Richmond, VA 23234
(804) 271-4777
➢ Re-enactment Eyewear (Don Griffin)
RR #4, Box 62
Williamsport, PA 17701
(717) 322-9849
(717) 322-8365
➢ Needle & Thread (Darlene Grube)
2215 Fairfield Road
Gettysburg, PA 17325
(717) 334-4011
➢ Family Heirloom Weavers (Pat Kline)
Coverlets & ingrain carpeting:
775 Meadowview Dr.
Red Lion, PA 17356
(717) 246-2431 (phone)
(717) 246-7439 (fax)
Cloth:
125 O’San Lane
Red Lion, PA 17356
(717) 246-5797
patkline@familyheirloomweavers.com
www.familyheirloomweavers.com
➢ Wooded Hamlet Designs (Mary & Kenneth Wagner)
4044 Coseytown Rd.
Greencastle, PA 17225-9677
(717) 597-1782
trims@woodedhamlet.com
➢ Camela Nitschke Ribbonry
119 Louisiana Ave.
Perrysburg, OH 43551
(419) 872-0073
➢ Zaharias Sutler (John Zaharias)
PO Box 31152
St. Louis, MO 63131
(314) 966-2829
jazsutler@worldnet.att.net
➢ Chile-n-Cracker’s (calico buttons)
PO Box 2865
Carson City, NV 89702
➢ Genteel Arts Academy (Carolann Schmitt)
PO Box 3014
Gettysburg, PA 17325
(717) 337-0283
www.cvn.net/~cschmitt/
➢ Textile Reproductions (Kathleen B. Smith)
PO Box 48
West Chesterfield, MA 01084
(413) 296-4437
➢ The Carpetbagger (Bob Paiter)
7805 Main St.
Middletown, VA 22645
(540) 869-7732
(888) 840-1865
www.thecarpetbagger.com
➢ The Trunk Shoppe (Steve & Katie Freede)
3761 Hwy 92
Crawford, CO 81415-9318
(970) 921-4770 (phone)
(970) 921-4771 (fax)
www.thetrunkshoppe.com
➢ Dixie Leather Works
PO Box 8221
Paducah, KY 42002-8211
(502) 442-1058 (inquiries)
(800) 888-5183 (orders)
➢ Panther Lodges
PO Box 32F
Normantown, WV 25267
(304) 462-7718
➢ R&K Sutlery (tents and flys)
RR #3 Box 15A
Lincoln, IL 62656
(217) 732-8844
➢ Village Tinsmithing Works (Bill & Judy Hoover)
PO Box 539
Hamptonville, NC 27020
(336) 468-1190 (phone)
(336) 468-1191 (fax)
www.csa-dixie.com/villagetinsmith
➢ Old Sturbridge Village
1 Old Sturbridge Village Road
Sturbridge, MA 01566
(508) 347-3362, ext. 270 (phone)
(508) 347-0369 (fax)
➢ Greenfield Village
http://www.hfmgv.org/store/default.asp
➢ Plimoth Plantation
http://www.plimoth.com/
➢ Sullivan Press
PO Box 1711
West Chester, PA 19380
(610) 873-2631
sullivar@rfweston.com
➢ Cumberland General Store
#1 Highway 68
Crossville, TN 38555
(800) 334-4640
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